Inshore — Lagoons, Mangrove & Flats

Nearshore — Reef Line, Cays & the Shelf Edge

Offshore — The Drop, the Passages & the Banks

Inshore

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  Tarpon — Year-round in the San Juan lagoon system and the mangrove basins — live sardines or a dark soft-plastic worked slowly along bridge shadow lines after dark, and the sheltered water still fishes when the trades shut the coast down.Gear5/0–7/0 circle hooks60 lb fluorocarbon leaderHeavy spinning combo

  How to ID

  • Large bright silver scales (silver-plated look)
  • Single dorsal fin with a long trailing filament at the rear
  • Large upturned (superior) mouth, bony upturned lower jaw
  • Big eyes; deeply forked tail
  • No spots, scutes, or barbels

  Typical: 48–72 in, 60–130 lb

  Tell it apart: Huge silver-dollar scales and a long trailing filament off the back of the dorsal fin make the tarpon unmistakable.

• 
  Snook — Peaks through the summer around river mouths and mangrove points; work a flair-hawk jig or a swimbait tight to structure on moving water, and fish the dark side of a dock light at night.GearFlair-hawk bucktail jigsWalking topwater plugs40 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Bold black lateral line running onto the tail
  • Sloping forehead with a protruding, scoop-shaped lower jaw
  • Yellowish fins (often bright yellow pelvic/anal fins)
  • Two separate dorsal fins, distinctly divided profile
  • Silvery-green back fading to a white belly

  Typical: 20–34 in, 3–15 lb

  Tell it apart: The single sharp black stripe down the lateral line plus the jutting lower jaw is diagnostic; no other inshore fish here carries that crisp black line onto the tail.

• 
  Bonefish — The flats of Cabo Rojo, Vieques and the island shelves — sight-fishing needs light wind and sun, so go early and pick a leeward shoreline; lead the fish well and let the fly or jig settle.GearShrimp-pattern flies1/8 oz bonefish jigsPolarized fishing sunglasses

  How to ID

  • Slender, torpedo-shaped silver body, greenish back
  • Conical snout overhanging an inferior (underslung) mouth
  • Faint dusky bars or sheen on the upper sides
  • Single short dorsal, deeply forked tail
  • Large scales; no spots, no barbels

  Typical: 20–28 in, 3–8 lb

  Tell it apart: The blunt overhanging snout with the mouth set well underneath, on a bright-silver streamlined body, separates it from any small jack or ladyfish.

• 
  Permit — Spring into summer on the outer flats and the shallow reef edge; a live crab cast well ahead of a tailing or cruising fish, with no weight and as little leader disturbance as possible.GearCrab flies1/0–2/0 short-shank hooks20 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Deep, strongly compressed silver disc-shaped body
  • Orange-yellow wash on the lower body and anal-fin area
  • Dark sickle-shaped (falcate) dorsal and anal-fin lobes
  • Forked tail with dark lobes; no spots or stripes
  • Small mouth, blunt steep forehead

  Typical: 24–34 in, 10–25 lb

  Tell it apart: Compared with a pompano (not on this list), a permit is larger and far deeper-bodied with a darker, more sickle-shaped second dorsal; the flat silver disc with an orange-tinged lower body and no markings is the giveaway.

• 
  Great Barracuda — Everywhere, all year, over reef and grass edges — burn a long silver tube lure or a fast-retrieved plug and hold on. Wire is not optional. Note that large Caribbean barracuda carry a real ciguatera risk and are widely released here rather than eaten.GearBarracuda tube luresSingle-strand wire leaderLong-nose dehooking pliers

  How to ID

  • Long, pike-like silvery body with a pointed head
  • Large jaw set with prominent, unevenly sized fang-like teeth
  • Scattered irregular BLACK blotches over the rear half of the body, heaviest low on the sides
  • Two small dorsal fins set widely apart
  • Dark, forked tail often with pale tips on the lobes

  Typical: 24–48 in, 5–20 lb

  Tell it apart: Scattered dark blotches low on the rear flanks, on a long pike-shaped silver body with a fanged jutting jaw, mark the great barracuda — no other reef fish here carries that combination.

• 
  Mangrove Snapper — Best through the summer around mangrove roots, harbor walls and shallow patch reef; freeline a live shrimp or small bait on light fluorocarbon and expect them to be leader-shy in clear water.Gear1/0 live-bait hooksKnocker rigs20 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Gray to reddish-brown body, often a coppery sheen
  • Dark band through the eye, more obvious when feeding/excited
  • Two enlarged canine teeth in the upper jaw
  • Reddish-orange tinge to the fins; no spot on the body
  • Single continuous dorsal, slightly forked tail

  Typical: 12–18 in, 1–4 lb

  Tell it apart: Gray (mangrove) snapper lacks the mutton's blue facial lines and high side spot and lacks the yellowtail's bright yellow lateral stripe and yellow tail; look for the dark eye-bar and a plain gray body with no markings.

  Easily confused with: Mutton Snapper, Yellowtail Snapper

Nearshore

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  Yellowtail Snapper — The reef-line staple — anchor up-current, run a chum slick and drift small unweighted hooks back into it. The fish sit well up in the water column, so fish the slick rather than the bottom.GearChum bags and frozen chum1/0 knocker rigs15 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Bright yellow midbody stripe widening into the tail
  • Bluish back with yellow spots above the stripe
  • Slender, streamlined body (less deep than other snappers)
  • Deeply forked, all-yellow tail
  • Pinkish-white belly, small mouth

  Typical: 12–18 in, 1–3 lb

  Tell it apart: The unbroken bright-yellow stripe running into a fully yellow deeply forked tail is unmistakable and separates it instantly from gray (mangrove) snapper.

  Easily confused with: Mangrove Snapper

• 
  Mutton Snapper — Spring is the window, when muttons group up on the deeper shelf edge; a whole ballyhoo or live pilchard on a long fluorocarbon leader fished right on the bottom, with the least weight the current allows.Gear5/0–7/0 circle hooks40 lb fluorocarbon leaderEgg sinkers

  How to ID

  • Olive-to-reddish body, often brick-red on the lower sides
  • Small black spot high on the side below the rear dorsal
  • Blue iridescent lines/streaks below and behind the eye
  • Pointed (V-shaped) anal fin; strong canine teeth
  • Red eye; reddish tail margins

  Typical: 16–26 in, 4–12 lb

  Tell it apart: The single black spot high on the side plus blue lines under the eye and a pointed anal fin separate mutton from gray snapper; red hind is a squat, round-tailed grouper covered in red spots, with no black side spot at all.

  Easily confused with: Mangrove Snapper, Red Hind

• 
  Red Hind — The everyday grouper of these reefs — drop a cut bait or small live bait into holes and ledge edges and lift hard immediately, because they bury into the coral the moment they feel the hook.Gear3/0–5/0 circle hooksBottom fishing rigsBottom fishing combo

  How to ID

  • Pale greenish-white to buff body densely covered in small red-brown spots
  • Dark blotches along the back at the base of the dorsal fin
  • Blackish margins on the rear dorsal, anal and tail fins
  • Squat, heavy-bodied grouper shape with a large mouth
  • Rounded (not forked) tail

  Typical: 10–16 in, 1–3 lb

  Tell it apart: Dense small red spots over a pale body, a rounded tail and dark-edged rear fins mark the red hind; mutton snapper is a forked-tailed snapper with canine teeth and a single black spot high on the side.

  Easily confused with: Mutton Snapper

• 
  Cero Mackerel — The Caribbean's own mackerel, thickest in the cooler months over clear-water reef; cast or slow-troll a small silver spoon or a live ballyhoo just off the reef edge on a short wire trace.GearCasting spoonsWire stinger rigsLight trolling combo

  How to ID

  • Bronze-to-yellow stripe running along the midbody from pectoral fin to tail
  • Rows of yellow-bronze spots ABOVE and BELOW that stripe
  • Black patch on the front of the first dorsal fin
  • Slender mackerel body with a row of finlets and a deeply forked tail
  • Lateral line curving gently down — no sharp drop

  Typical: 18–30 in, 3–8 lb

  Tell it apart: The bronze midbody stripe with rows of spots above and below it is unique to cero; king mackerel adults are plain-sided and their lateral line drops sharply under the second dorsal.

  Easily confused with: King Mackerel

• 
  King Mackerel — A cool-season fish here — slow-troll a live bait on a wire stinger rig along the drop-off and around the passage mouths, or pull a spoon behind a planer when they are deep.GearKing mackerel stinger rigsDrone spoonsCoated wire leader

  How to ID

  • Steel-blue back, silver sides; adults lack spots
  • Lateral line drops sharply downward below the second dorsal fin
  • First dorsal fin uniformly pale (no black front patch); folds into a groove
  • Slender elongate body, deeply forked tail
  • Row of finlets behind dorsal and anal fins
  • Juveniles may show faint yellow spots

  Typical: 24–40 in, 8–20 lb

  Tell it apart: The sharp downward dip in the lateral line under the second dorsal, plus a plain unmarked side, marks a king mackerel; cero carries a bronze midbody stripe with rows of spots, and wahoo shows vivid blue vertical bars.

  Easily confused with: Cero Mackerel, Wahoo

• 
  Amberjack — Wrecks, ledges and the shelf edge, best in the cooler months; drop a live blue runner or a heavy vertical jig to the top of the structure and be ready for them to run straight back down into it.GearVertical speed jigs8/0 circle hooksHeavy jigging combo

  How to ID

  • Dark diagonal bar through the eye to the first dorsal ("bandit mask")
  • Amber to brassy lateral stripe running along the flank
  • Bronze-amber sides, long stout body
  • Long-based second dorsal and anal fin
  • Deeply forked tail; no barbel

  Typical: 30–45 in, 15–40 lb

  Tell it apart: The dark diagonal eye-bar (nuchal bar) running up to the first dorsal, plus the amber flank stripe on a long stout body, identifies greater amberjack.

Offshore

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  Blue Marlin — August through October is the run these islands are known for, and the drop-off is a short ride out; pull big skirted lures and rigged ballyhoo along the 100-fathom edge, starting at first light before the trades build.GearMarlin trolling luresHeavy trolling comboHeavy mono leader

  How to ID

  • Cobalt-blue back, silvery belly, with pale blue vertical bars on the sides
  • Round, spear-like bill (not flattened)
  • Pointed first dorsal that is LOWER than the body is deep
  • Two keels on each side of the tail base
  • High, rigid, heavily built body

  Typical: 150–400 lb

  Tell it apart: A pointed dorsal LOWER than the body is deep separates blue marlin from both the sailfish's towering sail and the white marlin's rounded, nearly body-high dorsal; the bill is round in cross-section and the tail base carries two keels.

  Easily confused with: Sailfish, White Marlin

• 
  White Marlin — A spring and fall visitor to the same blue water as the blues, but far pickier — drop back to small rigged ballyhoo on circle hooks and lighter leader, and pull dredges to raise them.GearBallyhoo rigging kit7/0 circle hooks80 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • rounded (paddle-like) tips on the first dorsal, pectoral, and anal fins
  • lighter green-blue back, often with dark spots on the dorsal fin
  • first dorsal nearly as tall as the body is deep
  • more slender, lighter body than a blue marlin
  • spots and lighter coloration overall

  Typical: 65–80 in, 40–70 lb

  Tell it apart: The unmistakable ROUNDED (paddle-like) tips of the first dorsal, pectoral, and anal fins, plus a dorsal nearly as tall as the body is deep, separate white marlin from the sharply pointed-finned, lower-dorsaled blue marlin.

  Easily confused with: Blue Marlin

• 
  Sailfish — A cool-season fish here, thickest from late fall through winter; slow-troll or kite live baits along the drop-off and colour changes, and use circle hooks so releases are clean.GearBallyhoo rigging kit6/0–7/0 circle hooks60 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Huge sail-like first dorsal fin, far taller than the body is deep
  • Long spear-like upper bill (rounded in cross-section)
  • Cobalt blue back, silver sides with rows of pale blue spots/bars
  • Slender body; very long, thin pelvic fins
  • Two keels on each side of the tail base (billfish family)

  Typical: 6–7 ft, 30–50 lb

  Tell it apart: The enormous sail-shaped dorsal fin, far taller than the body is deep and running most of the back, instantly separates sailfish from either marlin.

  Easily confused with: Blue Marlin, White Marlin

• 
  Wahoo — Best from October through April — high-speed troll 12–16 kt with weighted jet heads on single-strand wire along the drop and around the passage mouths, where the current concentrates bait.GearHigh-speed wahoo luresSingle-strand wire leaderOffshore trolling combo

  How to ID

  • Long, slender, torpedo body; iridescent blue-gray with vivid blue vertical bars
  • Long beak-like snout with razor triangular teeth
  • Tall first dorsal fin running most of the back
  • Deeply forked tail, row of finlets
  • Hinged jaw that folds; skin appears nearly scaleless

  Typical: 40–60 in, 20–50 lb

  Tell it apart: Vivid electric-blue vertical bars and a long razor-toothed beak separate wahoo from the unbarred, spot-free king mackerel.

  Easily confused with: King Mackerel

• 
  Mahi (Dolphin) — Winter into spring is dorado season here, not summer — hunt weed lines, floating debris and working birds, then pitch ballyhoo or a bucktail and keep one hooked fish in the water to hold the school.GearTrolling skirt lures6/0 circle hooksOffshore spinning combo

  How to ID

  • Brilliant green-gold-blue with iridescent spots, fading after death
  • Long-based dorsal fin running nearly head to tail
  • Squared, blunt forehead in adult males (bulls); rounded in females
  • Deeply forked bright-yellow tail
  • Compressed body, single long-based anal fin

  Typical: 24–40 in, 5–25 lb

  Tell it apart: A single long dorsal fin spanning almost the whole back over a brilliant green-and-gold body is diagnostic of mahi.

• 
  Yellowfin Tuna — Spring and summer in the deep water off the passages; look for birds and porpoise over the drop, then chunk, live-bait, or throw a popper into a busting school at first light.GearVertical speed jigs7/0–8/0 circle hooks80 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Dark metallic blue back, silvery-white belly, and a golden-yellow stripe down the side
  • Greatly elongated, sickle-shaped (falcate) second dorsal and anal fins on larger adults
  • Bright yellow finlets edged with a narrow black margin
  • Lower flanks/belly often marked with alternating pale lines and rows of dots
  • Pectoral fin moderately long, reaching to about the second dorsal origin (not past the anal fin as in bigeye)

  Typical: 36–50 in, 30–80 lb

  Tell it apart: Long, bright-yellow sickle-shaped dorsal and anal fins plus yellow black-edged finlets distinguish yellowfin from the much smaller blackfin, which keeps short fins and dark, dusky finlets.

  Easily confused with: Blackfin Tuna

• 
  Blackfin Tuna — Thickest in the cooler months over the drop and around the FADs and buoys; small feathers trolled fast, or a vertical jig dropped under a bait school at dawn.GearSmall trolling feathersVertical speed jigs50 lb fluorocarbon leader

  How to ID

  • Dark blue-black back, silver sides; deep football body with a chest corselet
  • Finlets dusky/black, edged white-gray (NOT bright yellow as in other tunas)
  • Short pectoral fins, not reaching past the second dorsal origin
  • Smallest tuna; no oblique back stripes or fingerprint belly spots
  • Faint yellow on the central finlets at most

  Typical: 20–28 in, 5–20 lb

  Tell it apart: Dark, dusky finlets with no bright yellow, short pectorals and a small deep football body separate blackfin from yellowfin, which carries bright yellow black-edged finlets and long sickle-shaped dorsal and anal fins.

  Easily confused with: Yellowfin Tuna